1.服装形制的表现

The presentation of clothing’ shape system

西方服饰在形制上的演变过程幅度较大：从最初古希腊、古罗马的披裹式非成型类服饰发展到中世纪前期以半成型类的衣服为主的服饰。中世纪末期到文艺复兴时期，由于立体裁剪的出现，西方服饰慢慢走向了合身的体形型。而后，经过两次工业革命的洗礼，构筑式、体型型的服饰形态更趋完善。时至今日，现当代西方服饰主导了整个世界的服饰式样也已不言而喻。概括起来其形制的演变过程为：非成形——半成型——体型型。

The evolution of Western clothing in the form of a large extent:from the original ancient Greek,ancient Roman draped non-formed clothing to the clothing of the semi-formed clothes in the early Middle Ages.From the end of the Middle Ages to the Renaissance,due to the emergence of three-dimensional cutting,Western costumes gradually moved toward a fitted body shape.Then,after the baptism of the two industrial revolutions,the style of construction and body shape was more perfect.Today,the fact that modern and contemporary Western clothing dominates the world’s clothing style is self-evident.To sum up,the evolution of its shape is:non-formed—semi-formed—body shape.

2.色彩的运用

Use of color

西方服饰在古罗马时期就奠定了以白色寓意纯洁、紫色象征高贵的色彩偏爱，也就是说注重赋予色彩一定的情感寓意。直至今日西方女性的婚纱礼服仍以白色作为主要用色。而紫色用的紫草是最为贵重的染料，受当时染色技术水平的制约影响，紫色仅限于皇帝的衣装，民众禁用。到了中世纪在色彩上追求绚丽、奢华同时又弥漫着浓厚的宗教气息，以金、棕、黄、白等色饰以紫红色条纹为装饰。欧洲文艺复兴以来，随着服饰奢华程度的升级，明亮的色彩受到人们欢迎，织锦缎和天鹅绒中还织进了闪闪发光的金银丝线。此时期各国的色彩喜爱不尽相同：法国人特别喜欢丁香色和蔷薇色，迷恋储蓄的天蓝和圣洁的白色；西班牙人崇尚高雅的玫瑰红和银灰色调；在英国，黑色被认为是神秘、高贵的色彩，特别是黑缎子和黑天鹅绒常是贵妇的首选。到了近代，西方服饰发展过程中的色彩浓烈与淡雅交替登场，用色十分丰富，也正是在这一时期奠定了将黑色尊为西方男子礼服用色的习惯，沿袭至今。

In the ancient Roman period,western costumes established a color preference with pure white and purple,which means that the color is given a certain emotional meaning.Until now,Western women’s wedding dresses still use white as the main color.The purple comfrey is the most expensive dye,which is affected by the level of dyeing technology at that time.The purple color is limited to the emperor’s clothing,and the people are disabled.In the Middle Ages,the pursuit of beauty and luxury in color was filled with a strong religious atmosphere.The gold,brown,yellow,white and other colors were decorated with purple-red stripes.Since the European Renaissance,with the upgrade of the luxury of clothing,bright colors have been welcomed,and the glittering gold and silver threads are also woven into the brocade and velvet.The colors of the countries are different during this period:the French especially like lilac and rose,the sky blue and the holy white that are obsessed with saving; the Spanish admire the elegant rose red and silver-gray tone; in the UK,black is considered mysterious and noble.The color,especially the black satin and black velvet is often the first choice for ladies.In the modern times,the color of the development of Western costumes was strong and elegant,and the color was very rich.It was during this period that it was the habit of using black as the color of western men’s dresses.

因此，西方服饰在用色上受社会政治因素影响不十分明显，而将用色与个人特征、喜好联系较为紧密，着装者的肤色、心情、穿着场合等是西方人服饰用色考虑较多的因素。

Therefore,Western clothing is not obviously influenced by the social and political factors in terms of color,but the color is closely related to personal characteristics and preferences.The skin color,mood,and wearing occasions of the wearer are more considered by Westerners factor.

3.服饰的装饰

The decoration of clothing and accessories

西方服饰被誉为“立体的雕塑”，因此西方服饰的装饰手法也在很大程度上起到加强服饰整体的立体造型作用。轮状领、膨胀的袖型、切口装饰、重叠的花边和花朵、晃动的流苏以及浆过的纱料和各部位的衬垫、紧身胸衣和裙撑，就连应用平面上的图案往往也追求一种不对称的流动效果（例如哥特时期的国家徽章图案）。层次丰富、虚实搭配、重叠穿插都是西方服饰的常用装饰手法，而它们是和西方服饰的立体造型相呼应的。

Western costumes are known as “three-dimensional sculptures”,so the decorative techniques of Western costumes also play a large role in strengthening the overall three-dimensional shape of the costumes.Wheeled collars,expanded sleeves,cut-outs,overlapping laces and flowers,swaying tassels,and padded yarns and padding,bodice and skirts,even the pattern on the flat surface pursues an asymmetrical flow effect (such as the national badge pattern of the Gothic period).Rich layers,virtual and real,overlapping and interspersed are the common decorative techniques of Western clothing,and they are in line with the three-dimensional shape of Western clothing.

在首饰工艺上，较多地使用稀有金属和珐琅制造，并镶嵌珍珠、宝石，设计别致、精美而奢华，工艺水平高超，与服装搭配运用项链、耳饰、饰针等，会产生珠光宝气、绚烂多彩的效果。如拜占庭的奢华风格（图6-69～图6-72）。

In the jewellery process,it is made of rare metals and enamels,and is inlaid with pearls and gems.The design is chic,exquisite and luxurious,and the craftsmanship is superb.The use of necklaces,earrings,pins and so on with clothing will produce jewels.Gorgeous and colorful effects.Such as Byzantine luxury style (Figure 6-69～Figure 6-72).

图6-69　拜占庭时期十字架吊坠
Figure 6-69　Byzantine cross pendant

图6-70　拜占庭时期珐琅彩圣徒像吊坠
Figure 6-70　Byzantine period enamel saints like pendants

图6-71　拜占庭时期服饰搭配
Figure 6-71　Byzantine clothing mix(www.daowen.com)

图6-72　拜占庭时期奥托王朝圆碟形胸针
Figure 6-72　Byzantine Otto dynasty round dish brooch

由于追求缤纷多变的装饰性，形成独特的镶贴艺术，在男女宫廷服的大斗篷、帽饰以及鞋饰上都出现了镶贴光彩夺目的珠宝和华丽图案的刺绣。尤其是巴洛克珠宝，风靡于17世纪的欧洲，堪称奢华的珠宝盛宴。巨大的宝石形成一种豪华气派的风格，奢华的钻石、珍珠以及各种珍贵宝石都会被用在巴洛克的珠宝设计上，正好符合宫廷奢侈、浮夸的气势（图6-73）。

Due to the pursuit of colorful and decorative diversity,and the formation of unique inlay art,embroidered with dazzling jewels and gorgeous patterns appeared on the big cloaks,hats and shoes of the men’s and women’s court uniforms.Especially the Baroque jewellery,popular in Europe and the 17th century Europe,is a luxurious jewellery feast.Huge gems form a luxurious style,luxurious diamonds,pearls and precious gems will be used in the design of Baroque jewellery,in line with the court’s luxury,exaggerated momentum (Figure 6-73).

在服饰纹样方面，当时多流行花草纹样，意大利文艺复兴时期流行华丽的花卉图案，法国路易十五时期（图6-74），受洛可可装饰风格的影响，流行再现S型或涡旋形的藤草和卷曲柔和的庭园花草纹样（图6-75）。

In terms of clothing patterns,the flowers and patterns were popular at that time,and the gorgeous flower patterns of the Italian Renaissance,the French Louis XV period (Figure 6-74),influenced by the Rococo decorative style,the popular reproduction of S-shaped or vortex-shaped vines And curled soft garden flowers and patterns (Figure 6-75).

洛可可装饰风格的配饰工艺更注重宝石的配色。在大小宝石的排列，以及金属花卉图案的穿插上，用大宝石边上绕上一圈又一圈的小宝石，绿配红，红配蓝，或是祖母绿搭配钻石和珍珠，极尽最绚烂的冲突色彩（图6-76）。这一时期的珠宝设计方式也一直延续至今。

The Rococo-decorated accessory craftsmanship focuses on the color of the gemstone.In the arrangement of large and small gemstones,and the interweaving of metal flower patterns,a large gemstone is used to circulate a small circle of gems,green with red,red with blue,or emerald with diamonds and pearls,displaying the color of the conflict (Figure 6-76).The way jewelry was designed during this period has continued to this day.

带蕾丝衬底的宽领带珍珠项链，也是洛可可时期皇室的经典项链风格，柔软的蕾丝和温润的珍珠加上精致的蝴蝶结装饰，直到今日仍在引领时尚界的潮流（图6-77）。

The Choker pearl necklace with lace backing is also the classic necklace style of the Rococo royal family.Soft lace and warm pearls combined with delicate bows are still leading the fashion world today (Figure 6-77).

图6-73　巴洛克珍珠
Figure 56-73　Baroque pearls

图6-74　玛丽·安托瓦内特皇后 洛可可装饰风格
Figure 6-74　Queen Marie Antoinette rococo decorating style

图6-75　洛可可装饰风格 卷草纹样折扇
Figure 6-75　Rococo decorating style rolling pattern folding fan

图6-76　洛可可时期珠宝安妮·费尔柴尔德·鲍勤肖像画
Figure 6-76　Jewelry in Rococo periods The portrait of Anne Fairchild Bowler

图6-77　宽领带在现代首饰设计中的应用 香奈儿2016款
Figure 6-77　Choker's application in modern jewelry design Chanel 2016

近代，有影响的流行图案花样有波普风格、后现代主义风格服饰。以星系（图6-78）、宇宙为主题的迪斯科花样（图6-79），利用几何错视原理设计的欧普图案以及用计算机设计的电子图案等（图6-80）。这些图案及纹饰也完全渗透于欧洲的首饰及饰品上。

In modern times,influential popular patterns have pop style and postmodern style clothing.A disco pattern based on the galaxy (Figure 6-78) and the universe (Figure 6-79),an Op pattern designed using the principle of geometric illusion,and an electronic pattern designed by a computer (Figure 6-80).These patterns are also completely penetrated into European jewelry and accessories.