理论教育 和服种类介绍:探讨日本传统服饰

和服种类介绍:探讨日本传统服饰

时间:2023-06-18 理论教育 版权反馈
【摘要】:The whole pattern is woven from the hem,the left front sleeve,the left shoulder to the collar is a picture.The kimonos are worn on occasions like the opening ceremony,friends’ banquets,parties,tea parties and so on with no age and marriage Limits .4.振袖和服Vibrating sleeve kimono是未婚小姐们的第一礼服,根据袖子长度又分为“大振袖”“中振袖”和“小振袖”,其中穿得最多的是“中振袖”。

和服种类介绍:探讨日本传统服饰

留袖和服特点:和服下摆有整体对花图案,衣袖及上半身成一色,带家纹。女性参加婚礼和正式的仪式,典礼等时穿的礼服,主要分为黑留袖和色留袖。

Sleeved kimono features:The kimono hem has an overall floral pattern,and the sleeves and upper body are in a single color with a home pattern.The kimonos women wear to attend weddings and formal ceremonies,ceremonies,etc.,are mainly divided into“black sleeves” and color sleeves.

1.黑留袖和服

Black sleeve Kimono

已婚女性的第一礼服,以黑色为底色,染有五个花纹,在和服前身下摆两端印有图案的,称为“黑留袖”(图6-45)。

The first dress of a married woman,with a black background,is dyed with five patterns,and the pattern on both ends of the kimono’s front hem is called“black sleeves” (Figure 6-45).

图6-42 孩童时期和服
Figure 6-42 Childhood kimono

图6-43 成人日和服
Figure 6-43 Adult Day Kimono

图6-44 结婚和服
Figure 6-44 Wedding kimono

2.色留袖和服

Color sleeve Kimono

在黑色之外的其他颜色的面料上印有三个或一个花纹,且底边有图案的,称为“色留”。底边图案整体对花(图6-46)。

Three or one pattern is printed on fabrics of other colors than black,and the hem is patterned,called“color retention.” The hem pattern is overall to the flower (Figure 6-46).

3.访问和服

Kimono for visiting occasions

整体上染上图案的和服从底边,左前袖,左肩到领子展开后是一幅图画,开学仪式,朋友的宴会,晚会,茶会等场合都可以穿,穿着场合比较多,并且没有年龄和婚否的限制(图6-47)。(www.daowen.com)

The whole pattern is woven from the hem,the left front sleeve,the left shoulder to the collar is a picture.The kimonos are worn on occasions like the opening ceremony,friends’ banquets,parties,tea parties and so on with no age and marriage Limits (Figure 6-47).

4.振袖和服

Vibrating sleeve kimono

是未婚小姐们的第一礼服,根据袖子长度又分为“大振袖”“中振袖”和“小振袖”,其中穿得最多的是“中振袖”。主要用于成人仪式、毕业典礼、宴会、晚会、访友等场合。振袖和服花样绚丽色彩鲜艳展开就像一幅美丽的图画(图6-48)。

It is the first dress of the unmarried ladies.According to the length of the sleeve,it is divided into“big sleeves” “mid sleeves” and “small sleeves”.The most worn ones are “mid sleeves”.Mainly used for adult ceremonies,graduation ceremonies,banquets,parties,friends and other occasions.The colorful sleeves of the kimono and the kimono are like a beautiful picture (Figure 6-48).

5.小纹和服

Small grain patterned kimono

衣服上染有碎小花纹(图6-49)。因为适用于练习穿着,所以一般作为日常的时髦服装,在约会和外出购物的场合,常常可以看到。小纹和服也是年青女性用于半正式晚会的礼服。

The clothes are dyed with small patterns (Figure 6-49).Because it is very suitable for practice wearing,it is often seen as a daily fashion outfit,in the occasion of dating and shopping.The small-grain kimono is also a dress for young women to use for a semi-formal party.

图6-45 黑留袖和服
Figure 6-45 Black sleeved kimono

图6-46 色留袖和服
Figure 6-46 Color sleeves kimono

图6-47 访问和服
Figure 6-47 Kimono for visiting occasions

6.婚礼和服

Wedding Kimono

打褂是幕府时期侯国夫人的正式礼装,仅在节日、庆贺仪式上着用。未婚女性也可以着用。白无垢(图6-50)是幕府时期士族女子婚礼礼服,绫、纶子、羽二重质地。结婚当天只穿着白色打褂,因为白色象征纯洁,结婚几天后才换上色打褂(带夫家家纹的)。色打褂也是礼服的一种(图6-51)。

Wedding Kimono is the official dress of Mrs.Hou Guo in the Shogunate period.It is only used in festivals and celebrations.Unmarried women can also wear.White Kimono (Figure 6-50) is a sectarian period women’s wedding dress,with silk,feather two texture.On the wedding day only white coat could be worn,because white symbolizes purity.After a few days of marriage the dress could be changed to long over-dress (with husband’s family lines).Color gown is also a kind of dress (Figure 6-51)

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