1.常见的腰饰及其风格

Common waist decoration and its style

腰饰是用于人体腰部位置的装饰品，由各种材料制作而成，兼具绑束衣服的实用功能以及装饰的美学功能。在古代，不论穿着官服、便服，腰间都要束上腰带，多以布帛及皮革制成，一些贵族还常常在革带上悬挂刀剑、印章之类的随身物件，天长日久，腰带便成了服装中必不可少的一种饰物。20世纪70～80年代，裤子款式普遍腰部肥大，因此要在腰带系扎，国人利用一些废弃的面料边角经过简单加工制成腰带，系住裙或裤，这类腰带人们更加通俗的称它为“裤带”，因其主要的目的在于实用，不涉及美观的概念。当时这类腰带男女皆用，现在已经很少有人使用了。在现代服饰中，只有一些女性的服装中还可以见到布帛类软质的腰带，如一些连衫裙、大衣等，但主要的目的是为了凸显腰身系腰带，是服装款式美观的需要，已基本脱离了实用的目的。另还有一些用纱、缎类制成的腰带，也主要是装饰之用。

Belt is the accessory for human waist made by various materials with the practical purpose and artistic decorational function.In ancient time,the belt was fastend on the waist regardless of the official dress or daily wear.They were mostly made by cloth or leather,on which some noble persons hung swords,stamples etc.Later it turns to be a neessory accessory in fashion.In 70th and 80th century,the pants’ style was loose-waisted.Thus the fastening was needed.Chinese people used to manufacture the remnants of the fabrics into waistband to fasten skirt or pants.Its purpose was mainly for practical function,not related to visual ideas.In that time the waistband was popular among both men and women,but now it is rarely used.In current fashion accessories,it is still used in a few female dress as soft textured one,like the long dress or coat for visual purpose to highlight the waist.It is basically not related with practical function.Sometimes,satin and chiffon are used for waistband too,mainly for decoration.

皮革类材质制成的腰带在现代服饰中极为常见，不论男女皆可使用。除天然的各类动物皮革外，还有很多人造材质也被广泛应用。男子服饰中多使用一些高档的皮革制品，搭配一些款式比较正规的西裤穿着，而一般休闲的牛仔类裤装就很少使用了。男子腰带的款式比较单一，一般为深色皮革，带上没有装饰，带头多为金属制成。领带头的造型大致相同，至多在细节上略有差别。现代男子所用之腰带与古代男子所用款式有所类似，但不同的是现代男子腰带鲜有再悬挂其他配饰的。此类腰带女子服饰也常使用，不但材质、色彩多样，且款式也更为多样化，钉、镶、绣、编多种装饰手法皆可使用，还常常饰以各式挂缀。除皮革类腰带外，一些塑料、绳结、金属，甚至珠类饰品也被广泛运用于腰带的设计，在现代服饰艺术中，腰带已经成为服饰搭配的重要组成元素，其实用的功能已经大大削弱了。

Leather made belts are very popular in contemporary fashion regardless of males or females.A large amount of synthetic materials are used besides the natural ones.Some premium leather products are applied in the male fashion with formal suit pants,but rarely used in leisure wearing.The men belts’ styles are simple,mostly in dark color with no decoration.The belt head is made by metal.The shapes are relatively identical except in some details.The styles of waistbands of contemparory men and ancient men are similar,the current people rarely hang any decorations on the belts.Now belt is frequently used in women fashion.Its color,style,material are so diversed.The techniques like pressing,setting,embroiding,kniting,etc are seen in the belt decoration with hanging.Apart from leather belts,some plastic,cordgrass,metal,even beads are largely seen in the belt design.In current fashion design,belt has turned to be one of the important accessories with its practical functions greatly reduced.

（1）腰封。

Waist sealing.

腰封与腰链是腰饰中两个较特殊的品种，它们一宽一窄，一粗一细，对服装起到了很好的装饰作用：

The waist seal and waist chain are two special varieties in the waist.They are wide and narrow,one thick and one thin,which plays a very good decorative role for the garment:

腰封原指“书腰纸”，是包裹在图书封面中部的一条纸带，主要作用是装饰封面或补充封面的表现不足。现代服饰艺术中，腰封又被称为腰夹或胸衣等，是束于人体中部——腰部的一种服饰用品，有外穿和内穿两种。无肩、无袖、修身式外穿式腰封适合配合礼服穿用，内穿式高弹性的腰封非常适合生育后想恢复体型的以及腰部松弛或太粗的女性，它一般采用立体裁剪，有9～12条纵向的弹性压条，长度是从胸下围至臀部以上，长期穿着可有效地分散均匀脂肪，维护脊椎，抬高胸线，防止胃部扩大，控制食欲，美化腰线。

The waist seal originally refers to the “book waist paper”,which is a paper tape wrapped in the middle of the book cover.The main function is to decorate the cover or supplement the cover.In modern costume art,waist seal is also called waist clip or chest coat,etc.It is a kind of clothing articles of use tied in the middle of human body—waist.There are two kinds:outer wear and inner wear.Shoulderless,sleeveless,or figure-displaying outside wears fit with the formal dresses while internal wear with high elastic waist sealing is very ideal to restore body and the waist for fertile women with thick,loose figures space.It usually uses the draping with9～12 longitudinal elastic layering,extending from above under the chest circumference and hip.Long、term wearing can effectively dispersed evenly fat,maintaining spine,raise the chest line,prevent stomach expand,control appetite,and beautify the waist line.

时尚界所说腰封，一般指系在人体腰部的宽腰带，材质有很多，通常材料为皮、帆布等。腰封的紧收作用，有利于表现女性纤细的腰肢，便于与各式服装搭配，尤其与各种连衣裙搭配效果尤佳。腰封风格夸张，往往以水晶、珠片或铆钉作为装饰，带有帅性、坚毅的气质倾向。这种夸张的腰带能与任何服装搭配出彩：有时女性十足的连衣裙与之搭配，可显出柔中带刚的气质；而与帅气的短打军装或粗犷的牛仔裤相搭配则显得酷味十足。

The waistband of the fashion industry is more often referred as the wide waistband attached to the waist of the upper body.There are many materials,usually made of leather,canvas and so on.The tightening effect of the girdle is beneficial to the performance of women’s slender waist,which is easy to match with all kinds of clothing,especially with various dresses.The style of the girdle is exaggerated,often decorated with crystals,beads or rivets,with a handsome,determined temperament.This exaggerated belt can be paired with any outfit:sometimes a feminine dress is paired with it to show the temperament of a soft and medium-sized temperament; it is cool with a pair of handsome short-sleeved uniforms or rugged jeans.

（2）腰链。

Waist chain.

以各类材质串链而成的腰链，腰链既细又长，显得清爽飘逸。腰链品种丰富，大多为珍珠腰链、金属腰链、丝带腰链等，这些腰链充满着简约柔美的风格，细长的腰链末端延伸出的流苏吊坠在走路时摇曳生姿。这些腰链的最佳“搭档”就是牛仔裤和各种裙装，这些裤或裙装的垂感可以更好地衬托出腰链的摇坠之感；裙装与纤细的金属腰链的搭配；牛仔裤与晶莹的珍珠宽腰链的搭配；或者连衣长裙或长风衣搭配以珍珠、金属、丝带腰链，都会衬托出着装者曼妙风姿；有时甚至可以是数条不同风格的腰链进行搭配，强烈的风格撞击反而起到了不同凡响的视觉冲击力。

The waist chain is made of various kinds of materials.The waist chain is both thin and long,and it looks fresh and elegant.The waist chain is also rich in variety,mostly pearl waist chain,metal waist chain,ribbon waist chain,etc.These waist chains are full of simple and soft style,and the tassel pendant extended from the end of the slender waist chain sways when walking.The best “partner” of these waist chains is jeans and various skirts.The draping of these trousers or skirts can better bring out the feeling of the waist chain.The skirt and the slim metal waist chain pairing,jeans with crystal pearl wide waist chain; or long skirt dressing,or long trench coat with pearl,metal,ribbon waist chain,will all bring out the graceful elegance of the wearer.Sometimes even a few different styles of the waist chain can be matched,leading to an extraordinary visual impact by the strong styles’conflict.(www.daowen.com)

（3）腰带的选配要符合个人的身材、气质条件的要求，一般说来腰部较粗的人不适合色彩艳丽、款式夸张的腰饰，以免凸显腰部的不足；而即使腰部较细但盆骨较宽的人也不适合过于夸张的腰带，一些带有花饰的腰带也不适用；细细的腰链只有小腹平坦的人才能穿出它的美感，且搭配的服装裁剪须顺畅合体。

The selection of the belt should meet the requirements of the individual’s body and temperament conditions.Generally speaking,the person with thicker waist is not suitable to wear colorful and exaggerated waist chains,so as not to highlight the lack of the waist People with thin waist,but wider pelvis is neither suitable to wear exaggerated ones,as well as some belts with floral ornaments; As for thin waist chains,only the people with flat belly can wear and show their beauty,and the matching clothing must be smoothly combined.

2.腰饰的搭配要点

The key points of waist accessories matching

时至今日，腰饰已经成为一种时尚，细看国际大大小小时装秀，设计师已经离不开腰饰了。作为配饰的一部分，腰饰能很好地起收身勾勒线条的作用。因其处于人体上下服饰的衔接之处，腰饰在服饰搭配时往往具有承上启下的功效（图5-12）。腰饰与服饰的搭配多在色彩及风格上形成呼应：

Up to now,belt is a part of fashion.No fashion shows is without belt recently.As part of the accessories,belt can shape the line of waist,bridging not only the upper and lower body,but the integrated image of the dress Figure 5-12.The color and style coordniate with dress:

（1）色彩。

Color.

图5-12　腰带起到了承上启下的视觉效果
Figure 5-12　The belt provides the visual effect of connecting the top and bottom

在服饰搭配时，腰饰的色彩可以与服装相融合、达到色彩和谐的视觉效果，但也可以有意拉开色彩差距。在图5-11中，不同款式的腰饰与服饰融合为一个不可分割的整体，或醒目或含蓄，起到了独特的装饰效果。

The color of belt can merge with dress to create the harmonious visual effect when do the combination.Sometimes the color contrast can be intentionally made.Figure 5-11,different styled belts merge with dress for unique decoration effects:conspicuous or introverted.

（2）风格。

Style.

腰饰的配饰作用以风格搭配最为关键，在选择服饰配套的腰饰时首先应对服饰进行准确的风格定位，同时根据风格要求选择腰饰的款式、材质、色彩。如皮革制成的腰饰具有硬朗帅气之感；柔软的丝绸或雪纺制成的腰饰，给人以温暖亲切的感觉，富有女性化的温柔气质；皮革如搭配柔和的花朵形态，则可以中和皮革硬朗感，在帅气中又不失女性的气韵……见图5-13。腰饰的选择取决于服装的总体风格，一般而言：软而薄的丝质腰饰比较轻和飘逸，所以在服饰选配时应避免把它们与重和闷的衣服拴在一起，另外，那种层叠感很强的裙子也应尽量避免，以免让人产生累赘之感；硬而挺的皮质腰饰宜与具有干练感的服装搭配在一起，方具有协调之感。

The style of belt is critical in combination.The style of dress should be accurately set before selecting the style,color material of belt.Some cascading silk belts by chiffon or silk,create the strong feminine,warm and easy atmosphere in sweet colors and traditional embroiding floral decorations.As it appears visually light and flowing,the heavy and stuff clothes should be avoided to match with it Figure 5-13.Besides,the cascading skirts should not be matched either for not being redudant.Girdle and waist chain are two special waist accessories.One is wide and thick while the other is narrow and thin.Both of them can achieve good dress decorating effects.

图5-13　材质的差异使腰带展示不同的风格
Figure 5-13　The different materials make the belt show different styles