包袋是服饰配件中应用最广泛的类别之一。因其实用性远大于装饰性，因此包袋设计既要有装饰的“美感”又要有实用的“功能”。针对包袋的设计，可以从材质、色彩、结构、装饰等不同设计元素方面进行考虑，其中材质的运用在包袋设计中影响尤为重要。材质是体现包袋造型的物质基础，材质不同，其表面肌理、手感、光泽不同，做出来的包袋风格也迥然不同。如包袋采用野性而又奢华的蛇皮纹理，能够让佩戴者显得高贵出众；前卫和帅酷的包袋则大量采用铆钉、链条、锁扣等金属装饰物，摇滚味十足；塑胶包袋则使女性富有新鲜而精彩的时尚感觉，清爽透亮、手感亲切，且易于去污养护；编织感觉的包袋如冬日里帽子或围巾一样给人以温暖亲切的感觉，适合秋冬季节使用等。在设计手法上多种技巧“叠加”，在造型、色彩上加以变幻，使包袋饰品更加美观、引人入胜。

Bags are one of the most widely used categories in apparel accessories.Because its function is far greater than the decorative nature,the bag design must have both the aesthetic feeling of decoration and a practical “function”.For the design of the bag,it can be considered from different design elements such as material,color,structure and decoration.The application of materials and design elements is especially important in the design of the bag.The material is the material basis that reflects the shape of the bag.If the material is different,the surface texture,feel and luster are accordingly different,and the style of the bag is also very different.For example,the bag uses a wild and luxurious snakeskin texture to make the wearer look noble; the avant-garde and cool bags are made of metal ornaments such as rivets,chains,locks,etc.The bag gives women a fresh and wonderful fashion feeling,refreshing and translucent,feeling intimate and easy to decontaminate; the bag of weaving feels like a winter hat or scarf gives a warm and intimate feeling,suitable for autumn and winter seasons.In the design method,a variety of techniques “overlay”,in the shape,color changes,making the bag jewelry more beautiful and fascinating.

1.棉纤维

Cotton fiber

各种织物的主要原料，棉织物是包袋设计中经常使用的材料。通过不同的加工工艺，棉纤维可以形成风格迥异的外观，可以硬挺粗犷，也可以细腻光滑。不同的风格外观，为使用棉纤维进行包袋设计提供了广阔的设计空间。如香奈儿的包包中便是利用棉毛纤维，呈现出粗犷的面料肌理效果（图4-31）。

Cotton fiber is the main raw material of various fabrics,and cotton fabric is a material often used in bag design.Through different processing techniques,cotton fibers can form a different style of appearance,which can be rough and rough,and can also be fine and smooth.Different styles of appearance provide a broad design space for bag design using cotton fibers.For example,Chanel’s bag uses cotton wool fibers to present a rough fabric texture effect (Figure 4-31).

图4-31　香奈儿，包包
Figure 4-31　Chanel，bag

2.麻纤维

Hemp fiber

是世界上最早被人类使用的纤维，麻织物较棉织物粗硬且挺括干爽，非精纺麻织物表面有粗结纱和大肚纱，会构成麻织物独特的粗犷风格，运用在包袋的设计上，有一种特殊的自然淳朴美感。MARC BY MARC JACOBS（MMJ）2008秋/冬便结合时尚与环保，推出了以有机苎麻纤维制成的Miss Marc Goes Green系列包款（图4-32），来呼吁大家关爱拯救地球。这一系列包袋不但选用有机材质，而且袋上可爱的Miss Marc或企鹅图案，是用不含化学物质、对环境无害的染料印染，可以说整个包的制作过程都不破坏地球生态。通过此类包袋的推广，人们不再追求华丽的合成纤维，而天然、环保、前卫已成为现代包袋设计领域的新宠，在人们体现时尚的同时更体现生态化设计。

图4-32　马克·雅可布，2008秋冬
Figure 4-32　MARC BY MARC JACOBS （MMJ） autumn and winter 2008

Hemp fiber is the earliest fiber used in humans in the world.Hemp fabric is thicker and crisper than cotton fabric.The surface of non-refined woven fabric has thick knots and big belly yarn,which constitute the unique rough style of hemp fabric.Used in the design of the bag,there is a special natural and simple beauty.MARC BY MARC JACOBS (MMJ)2008 combines fashion and environmental protection with the launch of the Miss Marc Goes Green series of organic ramie fibers (Figure 4-32) to appeal to everyone to care for and save the planet.This series of bags is not only made of organic materials,but also the cute Miss Marc or penguin pattern on the bag is printed with dyes that are chemical-free and environmentally friendly.It can be said that the whole package is not destroyed by the earth’s ecology.Through the promotion of such bags,people no longer pursue gorgeous synthetic fibers,and natural,environment friendly,and avant-garde have become the new fond of modern bag design,and they reflect the ecological design while reflecting fashion.

3.丝纤维

Silk fiber

光滑柔软，富有弹性，但耐晒和耐磨性都不如棉织物和麻织物，价格也较为昂贵，因而在包袋设计中多用于工艺包，而较少用于休闲包的设计。

Silk fiber is smooth,soft and elastic,but its exposure resistance and abrasion resistance are not as good as cotton fabrics or hemp fabrics,and the price is also relatively expensive.Therefore,it is mostly used to design craft bags,and less used in leisure bag design.

4.皮革

Leather

在包袋设计中运用较多，不同的原料皮（真皮、革、合成革等），经过不同的加工方法，可以形成不同的外观风格，适合不同风格包袋的设计。由于真皮成本较高，多用于高档皮包的设计。在大众包袋的设计，真皮较多用于肩带、提手等部位，及与其他面料进行拼接设计使用，主体包袋用合成革材料。

Leather is used more in bag design.Different raw materials (leather,synthetic leather,etc.) can be formed into different appearance styles through various processing methods,which are suitable for different styles of bag design.Due to the high cost of leather,it is mostly used in the design of high-end leather bags.In the design of the mass bag,the leather is used for shoulder straps,handles and other parts,and is used in combination with other fabrics.The main bag is made of synthetic leather.

西西里风情是杜嘉班纳的主题。设计师完美地将民风、民俗融入奢华感之中，如2013春/夏女装秀场的配饰使用了大量的藤编元素，无论是彩色藤编包袋（图4-33），还是高跟鞋的藤编镶边，都透露出自然气息的淳朴风情。

Sicilian amorous feelings are the theme of Dug arbanna.The designer balances the folk customs and folk customs into a sense of luxury.For example,the accessories for the spring/summer 2013 women’s show displayed a large number of rattan elements,whether it is a colored rattan bag (Figure 4-33) or a rattan edging of high heels illustrate the simple and natural style.

5.多种纤维组合

A variety of fiber combinations

天然纤维材质可以单独使用，也可以与其他材料组合后使用，这样能够发挥不同材料的优势，起到加强或柔化的作用。如图4-34香奈儿2017秋/冬款包包，棉毛纤维营造出粗犷风格，与皮革搭配柔化了棉毛纤维的粗糙感，整体增加了细腻的感觉。

Natural fiber materials can be used alone or in combination with their materials,which can take advantage of different materials to enhance or soften.As shown in Figure 4-34,Chanel’s autumn and winter 2017 bag,cotton wool fiber creates a rough style,and with the leather to soften the rough feeling of cotton wool fiber,the overall increase of the delicate feeling.

6.色彩搭配

Color matching

不同的色彩可以使人产生不同的情感，图案的色彩搭配，也是包袋风格的决定因素之一。天然材质包袋在色彩上的运用主要为自然色调，以表现返璞归真的风格。如图4-35杜嘉班纳的包袋中，天然纤维的自然色调与高纯度的红、蓝、白等颜色形成强烈的视觉冲击力，具有浓郁的民族风情。

Different colors can stir different emotions,and the color matching of patterns is also one of the decisive factors of bag style.The color applied on the natural material bags is mainly natural tones,in order to express the origin returning style.As shown in Figure 4-35,Dolce & Gabbana’s bags have a strong visual impact on the natural color of natural fibers and high-purity red,blue and white colors,and have a strong ethnic flavor.

图4-33　杜嘉班纳，2013春夏
Figure 4-33　Dolce & Gabbana，spring and summer 2013

图4-34　香奈儿，2017年秋冬
Figure 4-34　Chanel，autumn and winter 2017

图4-35　杜嘉班纳，2013春夏
Figure 4-35　Dolce & Gabbana，spring and summer 2013

7.装饰手法

Decorative techniques

装饰是表现包袋风格的基础，表现手法丰富多样，以下仅列举其中几种来说明：

Decoration is the basis for the expression of the bag style,and the expression techniques are rich and varied.The following are just a few examples:

①编结是利用条绳类形态的材料，手工或机器进行编织。在天然材质中，如皮绳、麻绳、草绳以及纸捻绳都可以直接用于包袋的编结。包袋的设计除了可以完全使用编结手法，也可以与面料相结合形成另一番美感。此外，将面料二次加工制成条状之后再进行编结，也可以作为一种思路方法运用在包袋设计中。如图4-36以针织著称的意大利品牌米索尼包包，几何抽象图案、多彩线条再加上优良的编结工艺，使米索尼的包袋设计具有一定的艺术感染力。

图4-36　米索尼，手包
Figure 4-36　Missoni，handbag

图4-37　香奈儿，2010年春夏
Figure 4-37　Chanel，spring and summer 2010

The knitting is done by hand or machine,using strip-like rope materials.In natural materials,such as leather rope,hemp rope,straw rope and paper reins can be directly used for the knitting of bags.In addition to the complete use of the knitting technique,the bag can also be combined with the fabric to create another aesthetic.In addition,the secondary processing of the fabric into strips and then knitting,can also be used as a method of thinking in the bag design.As shown in Figure 4-36,the Italian brand Missoni bag with knitting,geometric abstract patterns,colorful lines and excellent knitting process make Missoni’s bag has a certain artistic appeal.

香奈儿2010年春夏时装发布会上的编织包，运用编、织、结多种工艺制作成手提包、斜挎包等如图4-37所示，让人目不暇接。使用草、藤、纸编织包袋，表现出田园、休闲的风格，可搭配休闲装，供户外使用。编织包袋除了可以使用同质的编织手柄外，还可以使用竹、木、藤制的手柄，再搭配刺绣、流苏、穗饰，表现出民族风格。(www.daowen.com)

The woven bag of Chanel’s spring/summer 2010 fashion show was made into a handbag,a cross-body bag,etc.by using various techniques such as knitting,weaving and knotting (Figure 4-37).It uses grass,rattan and paper woven bags to show the pastoral and casual style.It can be used with casual wear and outdoors.In addition to the same woven handle,the woven bag can also be used with bamboo,wood and rattan handles,and then with embroidery,tassels to demonstrate the national style.

②刺绣是包袋装饰中主要的运用手法。刺绣种类繁多，不同种类的刺绣手法和图案会呈现不同的艺术风格。在包袋设计中运用刺绣手法时，要考虑到包袋的造型和材料，例如，刺绣图案放置的方位，选用的图案、色彩等，都要和包袋的整体风格协调。如（图4-38）古驰刺绣包中将刺绣图案的融入到整体的包袋造型中。

Embroidery is the main application method in bag decoration.There are many kinds of embroidery,and different kinds of embroidery techniques and patterns will present different artistic styles.When using the embroidery technique in the design of bag,the shape and material of the bag should be taken into consideration,For example,the orientation of the embroidery pattern,the selected pattern,the color,etc.,should be coordinated with the overall style of the bag.For example (Figure 4-38),the embroidery pattern in the Gucci embroidery bag is integrated into the overall shape of the bag.

③镶嵌手法在包袋设计中也是较为重要的方法，运用得当可以成为点睛之笔。镶嵌物选择广泛，如木材、石材（这两种主要指制成的各种珠片）、小型贝壳、兽骨等，还有将烘干定型的植物（主要是花卉）来镶嵌装饰。镶嵌方法可以是黏连或钉绣（珠片类镶嵌物）。如图4-39杜嘉班纳以西西里神秘花园为灵感的“小姐”系列手包，采用了金属、宝石、水晶、手工木雕等各种名贵物料，利用卓越的手工刺绣及镶嵌技术，打造出一系列配以锁扣的盒子手包。

Inlaying method is also a more important method in bag design,and it can be the crowning touch if used propert.Inlays are widely used,such as wood and stone (the two mainly refer to various kinds of beads),small shells,animal bones,etc.,as well as plants that are to be dried and shaped (mainly flowers) to be inlaid and decorated.The damascene method can be glued or studded (bead inlays).As shown in Figure 4-39,Dolce & Gabbana’s Miss series handbags inspired by the Sicilian mysterious gardens use a variety of precious materials such as metal,gemstones,crystals,hand-carved wood carvings,using a variety of hand-embroidered and inlaid techniques to create a series of locks.

④流苏手法在包袋设计中虽然不占主体地位，但会产生特别的效果，甚至在某些风格的包袋设计中成为主要装饰方法。流苏应用的部位不仅在包袋的边缘处，甚至也有整个包身使用流苏装饰的案例，给人强烈的视觉冲击力。流苏手法采用的材料形态主要为条状或珠串状，材质也可以是多种类别。条状材质主要是皮革，如图4-40普拉达羊羔皮流苏手袋和纳帕鸡蛋包，包袋通体采用流苏来装饰，营造出了浓郁的时尚感。

The tassel technique does not occupy the main position in the bag design,but it will have a special effect,and even become the main decoration method in some styles of bag design.The tassel application is not only at the edge of the bag,but also has a case where the entire body is decorated with tassels,giving a strong visual impact.The material shape of the tassel technique is mainly strip or bead string,and the material can also be of various types.The strip material is mainly leather,as shown in Figure 4-40.PRADA lamb skin fringed handbag Nappa Frange Bag,the bag is decorated with tassels to create a rich sense of fashion.

图4-38　古驰，刺绣包
Figure 4-38　Gucci，Embroidery package

图4-39　杜嘉班纳Miss系列手包
Figure 4-39　Dolce & Gabbana，miss series handbag

图4-40　普拉达，纳帕扇形包
Figure 4-40　Prada，nappa frange bag

8.运用移借法

The use of the moving and transferring method

是将同类或不同类的已有造型或组成部分，进行有选择的转移借用，形成新的造型或新的装饰。移借的对象也可以是其他设计领域的主要造型。采用移借法进行设计能表现别出心裁、富有创意的效果。由于移借对象多为人们熟悉的内容，最后的作品面貌往往给人一种“熟悉的陌生感”，因此较其他常规设计作品的认可速度更快。如图4-41为2016年巴黎世家和图4-42 2007款路易威登2包袋。

The existing form or component of the same type or different types is selectively transferred and borrowed to form a new shape or a new decoration.The object being moved can also be the main shape of other design fields.Designing with the use of moving and transforming method can deliver a creative effect.Since the borrowed objects are mostly familiar,the final works often give people a “familiar strangeness” and therefore will be recognized more fastly than other conventional designs.Figure 4-41 shows the Balenciaga of 2016 and the Louis Vuitton 2007 bag of Figure 4-42.

（1）运用替换法指替换原来物件的某一部分状态，使之产生新的形态。

Use the replacement method:The method refers to replacing a certain part of the original object to a new form.

（2）装饰手法变换。

The transformation of decorative method.

图4-41　巴黎世家，2016
Figure 4-41　Balenciaga，2016

图4-42　路易威登，2007
Figure 4-42　Louis Vuitton，2007

例如，在刺绣手法上可以改变传统刺绣的丝线，用其他材料如麻线、棉线或毛线等代替，可以呈现出特别的效果。古驰白色刺绣手包中（图4-43-1）的刺绣改变了传统刺绣方法，将丝线变换为棉线或毛线替代，打破以往平面装饰的图案，微立体凹凸的刺绣方式给人更强的视觉冲击力。

For example,in the embroidery technique,the thread used in the traditional embroidery can be changed,and other materials such as twine,cotton thread or wool can be used instead,and a special effect can be exhibited.As shown Figure 4-43-1,the embroidery in the Gucci white embroidered handbag changes the traditional embroidery method,transforming the silk thread into a cotton thread or a wool thread to replace the pattern of the previous flat decoration,and the microscopic three-dimensional embroidery method gives people a stronger visual impact.

9.色彩变换

Color conversion

天然材质休闲包袋的色彩多为自然色调，在设计中，可以打破这一常规，应用其他色调，给予天然材质休闲包袋新的色彩感觉，在（图4-43-2）爱马仕盒形拼皮手拎藤编包的设计中就削弱了原本滕材料的质朴感，增添了时尚简洁感。

Natural materials casual bags are mostly natural in color.In the design,you can break this routine and apply other colors to give the natural material a casual bag a new color feel,as shown in Hermes boxshaped hand-woven rattan bag Figure 4-43-2.The design has weakened the simplicity of the original material,adding a sense of style and simplicity.

10.工艺变换

Process change

不同的制作工艺也会使得包袋具有不同的风格。如英国品牌装饰品的索菲亚大号绣花拉链包，将粗犷风格休闲包的外贴袋结构变换到民族风格的包袋上，呈现出混合的特殊风格（图4-43）。

Different production processes will also render the bags with different styles.As shown in the British brand Accessorize Sophia large embroidered zipper bag,the outer patch bag structure of the rough style casual bag is transformed to the ethnic style bag,presenting a mixed special style (Figure 4-43).

由于构成包袋的材料选用相对于服装来说范围较大，因此在包袋的设计中，合理地运用材质，运用不同材料的质感对比，是完成设计的必要手段。包袋与服装的搭配可根据不同需求心理、审美情趣作相应的变化。例如，当服装的面料较为细腻时，可选择质感粗犷而奔放的包袋如图4-44所示，也可选择质感硬挺的包袋如图4-45所示；当服装面料较为厚重而凹凸不平时，则可选择一些肌理光润柔滑的手袋，与服装面料形成鲜明对比如图4-46所示。总之，从服饰的整体材质效果来看，两者之间既可相互对比也可相互补充，既可互相衬托又可相互协调，在搭配变化中产生出特有的视觉美感。此外，包袋设计除了要考虑人、自然等因素，包袋的款式、色彩、材料要与着装人的年龄、职业、性格等状况相协调，同时也要考虑到民族习俗、季节场合，并要有所区别。再则，包袋设计不论造型、色彩和材料，都是在表现服饰的个性和特征。包袋从属于大的服装范畴，在包袋设计中，要做到与服装搭配相互补充，构成整体的装饰美感，这样才能真正地传达出服饰的内涵。对于包袋，应既要与着装的整体风格相配，又要具有独特的个性。

Since the material constituting the bag is relatively large in comparison with the clothing,in the design of the bag,the rational use of the material and the comparison of the texture of the different materials are necessary means for completing the design.The combination of bags and clothing can be changed according to different needs psychology and aesthetic taste.For example,when the fabric of the garment is more delicate,the bag with rough texture and unrestrained can be selected as shown in Figure 4-44,and the bag with firm texture can be selected as shown in Figure 4-45; when the fabric is thick and uneven,the texture can be selected.The silky handbag is in sharp contrast to the fabric (Figure 4-46).In summary,from the perspective of the overall material effect of the clothing,the two can be compared with each other or complement each other,which can set off each other and coordinate with each other,and convey a unique visual beauty in the matching change.Besides,It can be seen that in addition to factors such as human and nature,the design,color and materials of the bag should be coordinated with the age,occupation and personality of the dresser.At the same time,national customs and seasonal occasions should be considered.And there must be a difference.In addition,the bag design,regardless of shape,color and material,is the expression of the personality and characteristics of the clothing.Bags belong to the category of large clothing.In the bag design,it is necessary to complement the clothing to form the overall decorative beauty,so as to truly convey the connotation of the clothing.For the bag,it should be matched with the overall style of the dress,but also have a unique personality.

图4-43-（1）　古驰，白色刺绣手包
Figure 4-43-1　Gucci，white embroidery bag

图4-43-（2）　爱马仕盒形拼皮手拎藤编包
Figure 4-43-2　Hermes box spear handler wines

图4-43-（3）　配饰-索菲亚大号绣花手包
Figure 4-43-3　Accessorize-sophia large embroidered handbag

图4-44　苏菲·安德森
Figure 4-44　Sophie Anderson

图4-45　杜嘉班纳
Figure 4-45　Dolce & Gabbana

图4-46　图片来源于网络
Figure 4-46　Picture from the internet