1.服饰美原则

The principle of clothing beauty

服饰配件作为人体的装饰品，处于与服装相互搭配、相互“映辉”的地位，在设计的过程中受到服装风格、颜色、款式等的影响与限制。因此，纺织纤维类服饰配件的设计应首先遵守服饰美的原则。

As the ornament of the human body,the accessories of the clothing are in a position of mutual matching with the clothing and mutual “reflection”.In the process of design,they are influenced and restricted by the style,color and style of the clothing.Therefore,the design of textile fiber accessories should first comply with the principle of beauty.

（1）服饰配件的风格与服装的风格相统一。

The style of the clothing accessories is consistent with the style of the clothing.

服饰配件作为服装的装饰部分，起到渲染和强调服装风格的效果，只有将服饰配件与服装的风格相统一才能突出服装的整体风貌，展现穿着者的风格特征。对每一件服饰配饰而言，它们都具有自己的风格和魅力，将两者很好地统一起来，使服装的风格更加突出，服饰配饰才能起到最好的效果。

As a decorative part of the clothing,the clothing accessories play the role of rendering and emphasizing the style of the clothing.Only by unifying the styles of the clothing accessories and the clothing can the overall style of the clothing be highlighted and the style characteristics of the wearer can be displayed.For each piece of clothing accessories,they all have their own styles and charms,we will unite the two well,so that the style of the clothing is more prominent,and the clothing accessories can achieve the best results.

（2）服饰配件的色彩与服装的色彩相协调。

The color of the clothing accessories is coordinated with the color of the clothing.

服装的色彩通过视觉接受系统，给人“先声夺人”的第一印象。色彩搭配得是否合理，会直接影响服饰穿戴者的整体美观度和受关注程度。因此，在进行服装与服饰配件搭配的时候，不仅需要通过配色学的原理和手法进行服饰色彩整体搭配，还要综合考虑服饰配件的色彩与服装色彩的相协调性。

The color of the garment is visually accepted by the system,giving the first impression of “first screaming”.Whether the color is matched properly will directly affect the overall aesthetics and attention of the wearer.Therefore,when the clothing and clothing accessories are matched,the overall color of the clothing color can be matched Not only through the principle and method of color matching,but also the coordination of the color of the clothing accessories and the color of the clothing should be comprehensively considered.

（3）服饰配件的款式与服装的款式相呼应。

The style of the clothing accessories echoes the style of the clothing.

对服饰配件而言，在设计时不仅要考虑服装的风格，同时还要考虑服装的款式特点。因为不同服装款式搭配的配饰款式，不尽相同。服装配饰需要整体地与服装款式相结合，来考虑服饰配件的款式，使服饰配件的款式与服装的款式相呼应。如2016纳伊·姆汗春/夏时装秀（图4-19）中，纤维材料制作的耳饰与服装款式及头饰都协调的搭配在一起。2018春/夏米兰时装周丹妮拉·格雷吉斯的包包（图4-20）和项饰（图4-21）都应用了天然纤维材料进行设计与制作，其款式造型与模特的服装款式“和谐”搭配，构成完整的服饰美视觉效果。

图4-19　纳伊·姆汗，春夏时装秀2016
Figure 4-19　Naeem Khan，spring and summer fashion show 2016

图4-20　丹妮拉·格雷吉斯，春夏米兰时装周2018
Figure 4-20　Daniela Gregis，spring and summer milan fashion week 2018

图4-21　丹妮拉·格雷吉斯，2018春夏米兰时装周
Figure 4-21　Daniela Gregis，2018 spring and summer milan fashion week(www.daowen.com)

For the accessories,it is necessary to consider not only the style of the clothing,but also the style characteristics of the clothing.Because the styles of accessories vary with the styles of the clothes they cope.Clothing accessories need to be integrated with the clothing style to consider the style of the clothing accessories,so that the style of the clothing accessories echoes the style of the clothing.As shown in the 2016 Naeem Khan Spring and Summer Fashion Show (Figure 4-19),the earrings made of fiber materials are coordinated with the styles and headwear.Daniela Gregis’s bag (Figure 4-20) and accessories (Figure 4-21) in the spring and summer of 2018 are all designed and produced with natural fiber materials.The style and style of the model are harmoniously matched with the model’s clothing style to form a complete “Clothing Beauty” visual effects.

2.材料美原则

Material beauty principle

从现代纤维艺术的视角看，不难发现设计师在创作服饰配件的过程中，更注重追求材料自身的美感。纤维材料的纹理、光泽、质感等特征，被人的视觉和触觉所感知。在现代服饰配件作品中，不同的纤维材质给人以不同的艺术感受，如羊毛的粗厚、柔软，丝绒的细腻、华贵，麻线的粗犷、大方，棉线的质朴、素洁。在艺术创作时，构思设计图稿后，需先确定材料，再选择相应的表现方法。由于材料的粗细、软硬、滑涩等各种物理性都能影响并决定工艺制作技法。因此，选择合适的表现方法，才能充分发挥材料的独特魅力，从而更好地表现作品的内在魅力。

From the perspective of modern fiber art,it is not difficult to find that in the process of creating costume accessories,designers pay more attention to the aesthetics of materials.The texture,luster,texture and other characteristics of the fiber material are perceived by human vision and touch.In the modern clothing accessories works,different fiber materials give people different artistic feelings,such as the thick and soft wool,the delicate and luxurious velvet,the rough and generous twine,the simple and clean cotton thread.In the process of avtistic cveation,after designing the artwork,you need to determine the material first and then select the corresponding performance method.Due to the various physical properties such as the thickness,hardness,and slipperiness of the material,which determine the making process techniques.Therefore,by choosing the appropriate expression method,the unique charm of the material can be fully utilized to exert the inner charm of the design work.

在艺术首饰的语境中，材料的多元视角是设计师孜孜以求的目标。《那年，她来过》（图4-22）解读和把握材料的艺术语言特征，并将其运用在创作中。在艺术首饰作品中，利用化学类纤维柔软、“可塑”的材料特质，通过热加工处理工艺，改变了化学纤维材料所构成平面的视觉印象，塑造出立体的形制效果。低色彩饱和度的化学纤维传递出柔和朦胧的美感，为整件作品奠定纯洁、唯美的艺术格调。

图4-22　王书利，那年，她来过
Figure 4-22　Wangl Shuli，That year，She came

In the context of art jewellery,the multiple perspectives of materials are the goals that designers are striving for.“That Year,She Came” (Figure 4-22) interprets and grasps the artistic and linguistic features of materials and applies them to their creations.In the art jewellery works,the use of chemical fiber soft,“plastic” material characteristics,through the hot processing process,changed the visual impression of the plane formed by chemical fiber materials,shaping a three-dimensional shape effect.The low saturated color chemical fiber will convey a soft and blurredsense,which will provide a pure and beautiful artistic style for the whole work.

3.肌理美原则

Principle of texture beauty

追求肌理感是艺术体验的表现语言之一，它会给人们带来丰富的视觉感受。

肌理是指物体表面的组织纹理结构，即各种纵横交错、高低不平、粗糙平滑的纹理变化。它的表现形式丰富、表现风格具备特色，运用好肌理效果会使服饰配件的设计更加出色。不同的纤维材料在形状、疏密、大小、颜色等方面的差异，会形成不同的肌理外观，从而带来不同的美感效果，产生不同肌理效应，带给人不同的心理反应。如稀疏与密集的肌理，因为张力的强弱变化，产生松弛与紧张的心理感；凹凸与起伏的肌理，因张力的变化冲突，诱导退缩与扩展的心理感受；条理与节奏的肌理，因张力的规则有序给人以整齐舒展的心理感受；细腻与粗犷的肌理，则是张力在结构的隐与露中形成了含蓄明快的心理感受（图4-23）。

Pursuing a sense of texture is one of the expressions of the artistic experience,which brings a rich visual experience to people.

Texture refers to the texture structure of the surface of the object,that is,the texture change like various criss-crossing,uneven,rough and smooth.It has a rich form of expression and a distinctive style of expression.The appropriate application of texture effect will make the design of the accessories more outstanding.The difference in shape,density,size,color,etc.of different fiber materials will result in different texture appearances,which will bring different aesthetics effects,producing different texture effects,and different psychological reactions,such as the different psychological feelings of relaxation and tension caused by sparse and dense texture because of the change of tension; the different psychological feelings of inducing withdrawal and expansion caused by the texture of the bumps and undulations because of the conflict of tension; neat and stretched psychological feelings caused by the texture of rhythm due to tension; and the subtle and bright psychological feelings caused by the delicate and rough texture in the hidden and exposed structure (Figure 4-23).

图4-23　-（1）　图片来源于网络，项饰
Figure 4-23　-1　Picture from the internet neckpiece

图4-23　-（2）　丽达配饰，项饰
Figure 4-23　-2　Lida Accessories，necklace

因纺织纤维材料种类多样，质地各异，所以针对不同的材料运用不同的工艺制作手法来表现丰富的肌理外观。我们利用纤维材料这一特点，对其再加工处理，创造出纤维材料独特的表现语言。如图4-24的首饰作品，蓬松、柔软的毛纤维通过编织、扎捆缝制手法并与纤维面料并置，创造出凹凸不平的肌理效果，给人温暖的视觉效果。而图4-25的项饰则大面积地应用麻纤维本身的色彩，通过编织工艺营造出粗糙的肌理效果，给人质朴、自然的视觉心理感受。

Due to the variety of textile fiber materials and the different textures,different techniques are used for different materials to express and enrich the texture appearance.We use the characteristics of fiber materials to reprocess the materials cord,create a unique expression language of fiber materials.As shown in the jewellery work of Figure 4-24,the fluffy and soft wool fibers are woven and tied together and juxtaposed with the fiber fabric to create an uneven texture effect,giving a warm visual effect.The item of Figure 4-25 applies the color of hemp fiber itself to a large area,and creates a rough texture effect through the weaving process,which also gives a simple and natural visual psychological feeling.