1.首饰设计基本材料

Basic materials

（1）设计用材料：金属材料、非金属材料、宝石材料。

Materials:Metallic Materials,Non-Metallic Materials,Gemstone Materials.

（2）设计用工具：设计用纸、铅笔、橡皮擦、各种规板及云形规、彩色铅笔、水彩（粉）颜料、水彩（粉）笔。

Design Tools:Paper,Pencil,Eraser,Various Gauge Boards,Cloud Shape Gauges,Color Pencils,Watercolor (Flour) Pigments,Watercolor (Pink) Pens.

2.首饰制作工具与设备

Workshop furniture and equipment

（1）工作台。

Workbench.

首饰制作工作台的后面一般离地面距离为90cm，在台面正中向前伸出一块长约30厘米，宽约10厘米，厚约1厘米的木板，便于手工进行锯、钻及锉等工作。工作台台面钉上厚度为1厘米的铝皮（或白铁皮），以便进行金粉的收集和防火（图3-67）。

图3-67　珠宝工作台
Figure 3-67　Jewelry bench

The back of the jewelry table is usually 90cm away from the ground,with a board projected torward in the middle of table,which is about 30 centimeters long,about 10 centimeters wide,and about 1 centimeter thick,convenient for hand sawing,drilling,and boring.A 1 cm thick aluminum skin (or tin plate) is nailed to the table top for the collection and fire protection of gold powder (Figure 3-67).

（2）火吹套件。

Fire Blow Kit:Fire.

焊接工具是首饰制作中的重要工具，它的作用主要有熔金，退火，焊接等。火吹套件是由鼓风器，燃料容器和火枪等部件组成，各部分之间用软管连接。鼓风器可以是人力的（如风球），也可以是电力的（如空压机）。其作用是产生足够压力和流速的气流，使燃料容器中的燃料（如汽油或乙炔气，煤气，天然气，氢气等）与空气中的氧气充分混合，到达火枪后被点燃产生火焰（图3-68～图3-70）。

Soldering tools is an important tool in jewelry production.His role is mainly molten gold,annealing,welding and so on.The torch is composed of a blower,a fuel container and a musket,etc.Each part is connected with a hose.The blower can be manpower (such as wind ball),it can also be electric (such as air compressor).The role is to generate a sufficient pressure and flow rate of the gas flow,so that the fuel in the fuel container (such as gasoline or acetylene gas,gas,natural gas,hydrogen,etc.) and the oxygen in the air to fully mix,reach the musket after being ignited to produce a flame (Figure 3-68～ Figure 3-70).

（3）火枪。

Firearms.

一般有一个调节阀门，可调整火焰的粗细；有的火枪有两个调节阀门，一个调整火焰的粗细，另一个调整混合气体的混合比例。一般来说，在进行精细部件的焊接时通常使用风球＋汽油壶＋小火枪的组合，因为这种组合可以比较灵活的利用手脚的配合，调整火焰的大小，粗细；熔金和配焊药时则经常使用空压机＋煤气＋大火枪的组合，这种组合火焰猛烈，温度高，熔金速度快。此外在焊接和融化高燃点的贵金属（如铂金）时，通常采用高压氧气＋高压氢气＋专用火枪的组合，这种组合产生的温度可以达到2000℃以上。根据操作环节的具体要求选择火吹套件的适当组合是有必要的。目前教学用的实验室里用的是风球＋汽油壶＋小火枪的组合（图3-71）。

图3-68　焊接工具
Figure 3-68　Soldering tools

(www.daowen.com)

图3-69　氢氧熔焊机
Figure 3-69　Hydrogen and oxygen welding machine

图3-70　皮老虎（汽油）熔焊机
Figure 3-70　Leather tiger （gasoline）welding machine

There is usually a regulating valve that can adjust the thickness of the flame; some guns have two regulating valves,one adjusting the thickness of the flame,and the other adjusting the mixing ratio of the mixed gas.In general,the combination of wind ball + petrol pot+ squid gun is usually used in the welding of delicate parts,because this combination can be more flexible use of the cooperation of hands and feet,adjust the size and thickness of the flame; while the combination of air compressor + gas + bonfire gun is often used in molten gold and welding drugs because this combination is fierce and the temperature is high and the molten gold speed is high.In addition,in the welding and melting of high-firing precious metals (such as platinum),a combination of high-pressure oxygen + high-pressure hydrogen + special guns is usually used,and this combination can generate temperatures above 2000°C.It is necessary to select the proper combination of fire blowing kits according to the specific requirements of the operation.At present,the teaching laboratory uses a combination of a wind ball,a petrol pot,and a small musket (Figure 3-71).

（4）吊机及机针。

Crane and needle.

吊机是利用电机一端连接的钢丝软轴带动机头进行工作的。吊机一般是挂在工作台的台柱上。机头为三爪夹头，用于装夹机针。机头分两种，一种为执模机头，稍微大一些，另一种为镶石机头，稍微细小一些，且有快速装卸开关。吊机的脚踏开关内有滑动变阻机构，踏下高度的不同会使吊机产生不同的转速，适合于不同的操作情况（图3-72）。

图3-71　火枪
Figure 3-71　Gas torch

吊机机针是首饰制作中非常重要的工具，主要用于首饰的执模，镶嵌甚至抛光等环节。根据机针针头的不同形状，主要有以下几种：粗球针，扫针，钻针，吸珠，飞碟等（图3-73）。

The crane is operated by a steel wire shaft drive head connected to one end of the motor.The crane is usually hung on the stage pillar.The head is a threejaw chuck for clamping the needle.The machine head is divided into two types,one is a model head,a little larger,and the other is a stone inlay head,slightly smaller,and there is a quick loading and unloading switch.The foot switch of the crane has a sliding variable resistance mechanism.The difference in stepping height will cause the crane to generate different rotation speeds,which is suitable for different operating conditions (Figure 3-72).

Metal finishing tools are very important in jewelry production,mainly used for jewelry molding,inlaying and even polishing.According to the different shapes of needles,there are mainly the following:thick ball burrs,sweeping needles,drill needles,suction beads,flying saucers and so on (Figure 3-73).

图3-72　吊机
Figure3-72　 Pendant moto

图3-73　机针
Figure3-73　 Metal finishing tools

（5）压片机和拉丝板。

Laminating machine and drawing board.

压片和拉丝是首饰制作中经常应用的操作环节。压片机是由两个钢质压辊来完成压片的，动力来源于手摇和电动两种。拉丝板是拉丝操作的主要工具，通常需要固定使用。其拉丝孔通常为硬质合金制造，也有采用人造金刚石的，但价格极贵。拉丝孔的形状通常为圆形，也有椭圆形，半圆形，三角形，方形等，还有专门拉制异形截面丝的拉丝板。拉丝孔的直径由粗到细（图3-74、图3-75）。

Presser and wire drawing are commonly used in jewelry making.The sheet pressing machine is made of two steel press rollers,which are powered by both hand and electric.Wire drawing board is the main tool for wire drawing operation.The drawing hole is usually made of hard alloy,and some are made of artificial diamond,but it is very expensive.The shape of the drawing hole is usually round,but there are also oval,semi-round,triangle,square,etc.The diameter of the drawing hole ranges from thick to thin(Figure 3-74、Figure 3-75).

图3-74　拔线板
Figure 3-74　Draw plate

图标3-75 压片机　Figuer3-75 Rolling mill