拜占庭服饰时期可谓是“交会期”的服饰，它是和希腊罗马的古典风格，东方文化的神秘色彩，宗教文化的禁欲精神三种遗址文化相融合的。当人们从古埃及、希腊、古罗马那种简朴形态，单调色彩的服装世界走向中世纪的拜占庭时代时，突然看到了一个五彩缤纷令人目眩的服装世界。奢华五彩缤纷的服饰有赖于拜占庭发达的织染工业和中国丝绸的输入，还有赖于出色的饰品镶嵌工艺。

拜占庭时期是基督教发展时期，也是宗教艺术的典型发展时期。基督圣像是拜占庭艺术的主体，因此拜占庭的首饰设计中广泛运用十字架以及基督圣像等图案（图3-16）。拜占庭首饰一反罗马帝国首饰的简朴风格，造型图案极其华丽。如许多雕透工艺极其繁复。而他们的主要贡献是掐丝珐琅技术。图案的轮廓是由金属细条围在金属胎边，匕、焊在表面，在中间填上釉彩（图3-17）。

15世纪宝石工艺的发展表现在宝石切割越来越精妙。设计形式受到火焰式和垂直式哥特风格建筑的影响，壁龛和窗花格微型化为首饰式样（图3-18）。在当时低敞胸裙子的流行，增加了对项链和垂饰的需求，服装的宽袖衣给予了手镯露面的机会，男子佩着镶宝石的皮带扣，对于宝石材料的需求就多了，女子项链挂着可开合的空心小盒，对于小盒内外的“视觉传达”有了许多新的内容。如盒面外有着珐琅的宗教画如耶稣受难、受胎告知、圣母像、天使等，盒里装一爱人的头发。

在15世纪，还流行帽饰，而且还用黄金或其他金属制成。

The fashion in Byzantine period is the collection period.It combined the remained cultures of classical Greek Roman styles,mysterious oriental styles,and the religious Ascetic spirit.From the ancient Greek and Roman simple styled,few colored fashion to the mid-century Byzantine period,a colorfully glamorous fashion world was explored.These luxurious and colorful fashion relied on the advanced weaving and dying industry,the distinguished jewelries setting techniques,the import of Chinese silk at Byzantine period.

Byzantine period is the period for Christian religion development,also the typical development for religious art.The Saint Christ is the main theme for the Byzantine art,the Cross and the Saint Christ patterns were widely used in jewelries design Figure 3-16.Quite opposite to the simple style of jewelries of Rome,the Byzantine jewelries’ pattern and shape are extremely luxurious.For example,the carving technique is extremely complicated.Their main contribution is the cloisonne technique.The pattern outline was enclosed by metal string besides the metal mold,with the enamel filled in the middle,welded on the surface.

The development of gem technique of 15th century was presented on the refined gem cutting.The design was influenced by the flame shaped and vertical were influenced by the Gothic architecture.The wall end and the window grid were minimized into jewelry design.The popularity of the low neck gown promoted the demand for necklace and pendant.The wide sleeved clothes got bracelets revealed.The belt buckle men wore were set with gem,which increased the needs for gem materials.The hollow accessible little box hung in the necklace for women were added the “visual expression” from inside and outside:like the Saint Chris in enamel,the Virgin of Guadalupe,angels,arrival information of baby outside,a bunch of hair from lover.(www.daowen.com)

图3-16　拜占庭时期油画
Figure 3-16　Byzantine oil painting

图3-17　十字架图案首饰
Figure 3-17　Crucifixion jewelry

图3-18　拜占庭时期吊坠
Figure3-18　 Byzantine pendant

In 15th century,the hat accessories were popular too,they were even made by gold and other metal.