古希腊有着丰富的首饰遗产。早期的希腊金属工艺,明显受到古埃及的影响,形式单纯、表现有力,且多用圆、三角形等几何纹样装饰。古希腊的首饰主要品种有王冠、花环、耳环和项链。花环(图3-8)是用于宗教行列,也用于奖励某位功臣。希腊工匠的最主要的贡献是直接用金子铸造人和动物的形象的首饰(图3-9)。在公元前3世纪希腊首饰,很少用宝石,色彩效果是靠珐琅工艺获得。但在公元前3世纪马其顿国王亚历山大大帝征服希腊后,东方宝石渐渐用于希腊首饰。
图3-8 金花冠 公元前3~公元前4世纪 希腊国立考古博物馆
Figure 3-8 Gold floral crown 3~4 centuries B.C.National Archaeological Museum,Greece(www.daowen.com)
图3-9 金发罩 公元前3世纪 希腊国立考古博物馆
Figure 3-9 Gold hair cover 3 centuries B.C.,National Archaeological Museum,Greece
The jewelry remains of ancient Greece are rich.The early Greek metal techniques were obviously influenced by ancient Egyptians:simple forms,effective presentation,geometric shapes like round and triangle were often applied.The main jewelry categories of that time were:crown,floral crown,necklace,earrings.The floral crowns were for the religious purpose,also for rewarding the meritorious royal officers.The most significant contribution of Greek jewelry technicians is to molding the shapes of human beings and animals directly by gold.Before 3 centuries B.C.,gems were rarely applied.The colorful effects were achieved by enamel techniques.But after 3 centuries B.C.,Greece was conquered by Alexande,the Great of Macedon,the oriental gems were gradually applied on Greek jewelries.
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