1.基本概念
Basic concepts
技术从生产劳动中来,它体现了人类制造工具的生产活动的根本特征。因此,用技术生产活动创造出来的产品所具有的美称为技术美。[22]这里的技术,是泛指意义上的应用于服饰配件设计制造的现代技术。与服饰设计相同,现代技术的广泛使用,不仅使服饰及服饰配件的生产变得迅速,同样,在其美学设计中也起到了重要作用。服饰配件中的技术美,可以说是艺术与技术的交融体。技术不仅仅为艺术创作提供了实现审美情趣的多种方式,同时设计理念的表达也置入了现代技术之中。技术美是一种潜藏着物质功能的美,但是它的审美价值并不是直接来自产品的物质功能和效用本身。技术美是由形式所表现的科学技术文明的历史内容,它反映了产品的合规律性与合目的性的统一以及人在创造历史中所取得的自由。人通过产品的结构形式把自然规律纳入了自身目的的轨道,使它与人的社会生活环境和人的活动相和谐。[23]服饰配件技术美的审美体验,只有在具象与抽象思维的相互转换中才得以完整。
技术美的生成更多地与理性联系在一起。现代技术不断地更新着服饰配件美的艺术表现,从而生成区别于传统的设计美感。与服饰设计中的技术美相同,服饰配件中的技术美感,同样体现在精确的秩序感、视觉图式的层次感与技术性痕迹等几个方面。[24]
Technology comes from production labor,which embodies the essential characteristics of the production activities of human manufacturing tools.Therefore,the beauty of products created with technological production activities is called technical beauty [Li Chaode.Design Aesthetics [M].Hefei:Anhui Fine Arts Publishing House,2004.8:120].The technology here refers to a wide range of modern technologies applied to the design and manufacture of apparel accessories.As with apparel design,the widespread use of modern technologies not only makes the production of apparel and accessories faster,but also plays an important role in its aesthetic design.The technical beauty in fashion accessories can be said to be a blend of art and technology.Technology not only provides a variety of ways for artistic creation to realize aesthetic tastes,but at the same time,the expression of design concepts is also incorporated into modern technologies.Technical beauty is a kind of beauty with hidden physical functions,but its aesthetic value is not directly from the material function and utility of products.Technical beauty is the historical content of the scientific and technological civilization represented by the form.It reflects the unity of the product’s regularity and purpose and the freedom people have achieved in creating history.Through the structural form of the product,man incorporates the laws of nature into the track of his own purpose,making it in harmony with the human social environment and human activities [Li Chaode.Design Aesthetics [M].Hefei:Anhui Fine Arts Publishing House,2004.8:121].The aesthetic experience of the beauty of fashion accessories can only be completed in the mutual conversion of figurative and abstract thinking.
The generation of technical beauty is more associated with logic reasoning.Modern technology constantly updates the artistic expression of the beauty of fashion accessories,thereby creating a design aesthetic that is different from the traditional design.Similar to the technical beauty in apparel design,the techni
cal beauty in apparel accessories is also reflected in the precise sense of order,the level of visual schemata,and technical traces.[Huang Sihua.Research on Costume Beauty and Its Artistic Performance[J].Clothes & Accessories,2017,6(1):43-46.].
2.技术美的艺术表现
Artistic Expression of Technical Beauty
服饰配件中的技术美,依托于服饰配件所采用的材料、设计制造过程中的工具、工艺等。与此同时,高新科技的引入,更使得技术美得到了新的阐释。
The technical beauty in apparel accessories depends on the materials used in apparel accessories,tools and processes in the design and manufacturing process,At the same time,the introduction of hi-tech technology has given new interpretation to the beauty of technology.
(1)材料。
Material.
服饰配件美的基本依托是其所采用的材料,虽然设计师可以自由地构思其设计,但无法摆脱所采用的材料对设计的限定。服饰配件的审美质量与科学技术的发展水平密切相关。随着人们的审美需求变化,促使服装配饰材料的科研与生产更加注重艺术附加值。(www.daowen.com)
The basic reliance on apparel accessories is the material it uses.Although designers can freely conceive their designs,they can’t get rid of the restrictions on the design of materials used.The aesthetic quality of apparel accessories is closely related to the level of development of science and technology.As people’s aesthetic needs change,research and production of clothing accessories materials will be more value-added.
(2)工具。
Tools.
工具是生产劳动时所采用的器具,作为生产力基本要素之一,生产劳动工具可顺畅地转化为艺术创造工具。而不同工具对服饰配件的生产所产生的影响,直接体现在服饰配件的设计和生产的结果上。
Tools are used in production labor.As one of the basic elements of productivity,production and labor tools can be smoothly transformed into tools for artistic creation.The impact of different tools on the production of apparel accessories is directly reflected in the design and production of apparel accessories.
(3)工艺。
Craftsmanship.
工艺是利用工具作用于材料之上,达到设计目的的操作过程,表现为一种实践形态。工具与材料是服饰配件美的基础要素,而工艺是产品美的核心要素。在材料与工具高度标准化的今天,工艺则是体现个性、表达差异化的最好途径,服饰配件的高附加值通常通过工艺得到最完美的体现。
Craftsmanship is the use of tools on the material to achieve the purpose of the design of the operation,as a form of practice.Tools and materials are the basic elements of beauty accessories,and craftsmanship is the core element of product beauty.In the highly standardized materials and tools today,craftsmanship is the best way to reflect individuality and express differences.The high added value of apparel accessories is usually best reflected in the process.
(4)高新科技。
High and new science and technology.
高新技术的概念较为宽泛,泛指近代发展起来的、依托于自然科学进步的科学内容。高新技术的发展对服饰配件设计起到了非常大的影响,着重表现在新材料的应用、新设计方法的选择、新功能的发明以及新生产方式的组织等方面。新材料的开发及使用,使得服饰配件的艺术价值得到更好的依托,从根本上提升其艺术附加值;新技术的使用,例如,计算机辅助设计、大规模建模分析等,使得服饰配件的设计生产得到进一步的增强;而依托于新技术的工艺方法,使得服饰配件的设计目的得到更好的表现,提升了其艺术附加值;新的生产方式,以一种更加环保、更加高效的方式,使得所生产产品的美学价值得到进一步的推广和传播。
The concept of high and new technology is relatively broad,referring to the scientific content developed in modern times and based on the progress of natural science.The development of high technology has exerted a great influence on the design of apparel accessories,with emphasis on the application of new materials,the selection of new design methods,the invention of new functions,and the organization of new production methods.The development and use of new materials will enable the artistic value of apparel accessories to be better supported and fundamentally enhance its artistic added value; the use of new technologies,such as computer-aided design,large-scale modeling and analysis,will enable the design of apparel accessories.Production has been further enhanced; and relying on new technological processes,the design objectives of apparel accessories have been better demonstrated,and their artistic added value has been enhanced; new production methods have become more environmentally friendly and more efficient.Make the aesthetic value of the products produced to be further promoted and spread.
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