赵芮禾[1]　胡晓坤[2]

摘　要：以江西南昌明代宁靖王夫人吴氏墓出土霞帔与河北遵化清东陵温僖贵妃墓出土彩帨的文物修复保护为基础，探讨明清两代命妇服制中装饰品的演变与发展。在中国悠久的封建历史长河中，贵族女性的服饰在中国服饰史上都是浓墨重彩的一笔，随着织造工艺、装饰手法的不断创新，明清时代的贵族女性服饰制度却受到了不同程度的限制。在厚重烦琐的礼服服制中，霞帔与彩帨的装饰之美起到了画龙点睛的作用。

关键词：明清服制；命妇礼服；霞帔；彩帨

The Beauty of Spirit in Ming and Qing Dynasty Dresses— Xiapei and Caishui(www.daowen.com)

Zhao Ruihe　Hu Xiaokun

Abstract:This article is based on the study of restoration and protection of the embroidered clothes(Xiapei) unearthed from the tomb of Mrs.Wu of highness Ningjing in Nanchang of Ming dynasty,and silk handkerchief(Caishui) from tomb of noble— consort Wenxi of Qing dynasty in Zunhua,Hebei province,tries to survey the evolution and development of decorations of the clothes of the titled women in Ming and Qing dynasty.In ancient China,the style of the dresses of aristocratic women is an important topic in the history of chinese dress.With the continuous innovation of weaving technology and decoration techniques,in the Ming and Qing dynasties,the aristocratic women’s clothing system was restricted to certain models.In the heavy and cumbersome dress system,the decoration of Xiapei and Caishui played a role in making the finishing point.

Key Words:Ming and Qing clothing system; aristocrat women’s dress; Xiapei; Caishui