杨然[2]　王越平[3]　朱丽娉[4]

摘　要：“织成”是运用定位织造技艺加工成具有可成型性的纺织产品的总称，其历史久远，适用范围较广。文章通过重新界定“织成”的定义，从“织成”的织造技法、组织结构和产品等方面梳理了“织成”的适用性，并以北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆藏的“蓝色花蝶纹织成大袄”为例，从“织成”服饰上的花本设计与排板的技术要求两方面进行技术可行性分析。利用花本与排板的相互配合有效地解决了花本的顺序性与方向性问题。

关键词：织成；花本；排板；技术可行性

Study on the “Zhicheng” Weaving Technical Feasibility of“The Blue Flower and Butterfly Pattern Woven Coat”(www.daowen.com)

Yang Ran　Wang Yueping　Zhu Liping

Abstract:“Zhicheng” is a general term for the use of location weaving techniques to produce formable textile products.It has a long history and a wide range of applications.By clearing the definition of “Zhicheng”,the paper summarized the applicability of “Zhicheng” in the aspects of weaving techniques,weave structure and product application.A“blue flower and butterfly pattern woven coat”being exampled,which collected in the National Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,the technical feasibility were analyzed from two aspects:the design of rope pattern cards and the technical requirements of the typesetting.The problem of sequence and direction of the rope pattern cards are eあectively solved by cooperating of rope pattern cards and typesetting.

Key Words:Zhicheng; rope pattern cards; typesetting; technical feasibility