司志文[1]

摘　要：足衣是日常生活中不可或缺的部分，连俗语中都有“脚上无鞋——穷半截”的说法。作为服饰文物中的一个重要品类，在出土后仍需仔细保存和修复，还涉及多种材料和复杂工艺，修复中也要注意材料间的互相影响。

关键词：软靴；厚底靴；绵袜；回潮清洗；控制干燥；修复

The Conservation and Restoration of Unearthed Shoes

Si Zhiwen(www.daowen.com)

Abstract:Shoes and socks are an indispensible part of our life.As the saying goes,“No shoes on feet,no money in pockets”.Being an important part of ancient textiles,shoes and socks excavated from the archaeological contexts usually need a more careful treatment when being conserved and restored.The original craftwork and conservation treatment both involve diverse materials and complicated technological processes.We should be careful of the mutual influence from such diあerent materials in restoration process.

Key Words:Soft boots; Thick-soled boots; Silk sockings; Re-moisture and Clean; Control drying; Restoration

鞋靴类文物在出土纺织品文物中占据一定的地位，其制作工艺方法和衣物服饰有很大的不同，以多层织物、多层织物绗缝、多层织物纳缝居多，间以与服饰相同的衬夹层絮绵等。装饰手段中有很多和整体服饰相同或相近之处，但又有自己独特的地方，如皮毛、皮革、金属、纸、木等与织物的结合应用。

鞋靴的材质除了现在常见的皮革之外，还有历史悠久的丝、毛、棉、麻等传统织物。这里仅列举大唐西市博物馆藏汉代刺绣软靴、清东陵温僖贵妃靴袜这两种不同年代、不同材质、不同成型工艺的鞋靴作为说明。