朴文英[1]

摘　要：缂丝是我国古老的纺织技艺，有一千多年的历史。独特的通经断纬工艺织造的花纹线条清晰、立体感强，宋以后在长江三角洲地区主要用来制作艺术品，在艺术史上独树一帜。除了艺术品，缂丝还用来制作装裱用材料、居室装饰品以及服饰。由于工本太高，用缂丝工艺制作的服装数量相对较少，被历代皇室和贵族阶层享用，从留存至今的遗物上可以了解当时的情况。明清时期缂丝服装的资料相对较多，制作的产地、服装的款式和制作工艺还比较清楚，但是之前的缂丝服装资料极少，当时缂丝服装的制作和使用情况很不清晰。笔者尽力查找元代以前的实物资料和文献资料，通过横向和纵向的比较，初步探求早期缂丝服装的面貌。

关键词：缂丝；缂毛；服饰；产地；款式；制作工艺；时代；民族

The Application of Kesi (Tapestry) Technic in Ancient Clothing(www.daowen.com)

Piao Wenying

Abstract:Kesi (tapestry) as an ancient textile technology,has a history of more than one thousand year.Characterised by having clear outline and strong dimensional sense,it has been made for artwork since Song dynasty and have enjoyed great popularity among the public.According to the relics,Kesi (tapestry) has also been used for decoration and clothing,but owing to its high cost,there remains little amount of clothing made of Kesi (tapestry)and it has only been enjoyed by the royals and upper class.There are comparably more historical records in Ming and Qing dynasty about the place of production,clothing style and manufacturing process whereas there left little information about Kesi (tapestry) before this historical period.This article aims to find both physical and documentary evidence before Yuan dynasty based on the comparison of predecessors and contemporaries and explore the early image of Kesi (tapestry).

Key Words:Kesi (tapestry); Wool tapestry; Clothing; Place of production; Style;Manufacturing process; Dynasty; Minority